The Essentials for Skin that Lasts
Walk down any beauty aisle or scroll social media for 5 minutes and it’s clear, we’re drowning in products, promises and “must-have” routines. Yet, for all the noise, the people whose skin truly lasts- aging slowly, staying resilient and looking healthy decade after decade - tend to have something in common: they use fewer, better products and they use them consistently. While determining the best routine and number of products you “need” can be overwhelming, this is about why simplifying is the power move, and how a “less but more effective” approach can actually better support the longevity of your skin.
It’s not just you, the skincare landscape has grown exponentially and here’s why:
Explosion of Choice
New brands, new “actives” and new product categories launch constantly. The must have list of product layers is continually growing, and marketing is doing what it does best - it creates urgency sometimes at the sacrifice of clarity.
Conflicting Advice and Trends
Today you’re reading about the best 10 layered routine for glass skin and tomorrow it’s all about skin minimalism. Some are promoting aggressive actives and others say it’s all about your skin barrier. And neither is necessarily wrong, but it leaves us in a state of confusion - so you keep buying and hoping the next thing is the fix.
The latest Science-based buzzwords
Whether it’s peptides, NAD+, exosomes or stem cells, all can be valuable to your skin, but how is it integrating with your routine. Not too mention, there is a lot of discussion about how much of the active ingredient is really “in” the product. Often they require an extremely low percentage to be able to disclose it includes “x” ingredient. It’s often hard to tell what is really effective.
The good news is that your skin does not need everything, it needs the right things consistently over time. Skin longevity isn’t just about having “no wrinkles”, it’s about skin that stays structurally strong - collagen, elastin and healthy skin barrier) coupled with even-toned, smooth skin.
Invest in these 3 essential categories that make the most impact to your skin. Better results will come from higher quality products and less of them.
Broad Spectrum SPF. It goes without saying that SPF is a non-negotiable and here’s why. The sun and UV rays actually break down collagen - exactly what you are trying to preserve. The breakdown in collagen is driving uneven skintone, fine lines and wrinkles and loss of elasticity. SPF used EVERY day is the most impactful product to preserving your skin
Hydration and protecting your skin barrier. Using a gentle cleanser (or double cleansing) and a moisturizer (face oil or cream) will retain your barrier integrity creating less inflammation and resistance to damage over time
Targeted Actives (think Retinol and Vitamin C) rather than a crowded cocktail. Specifically, use a cell turnover or renewal active in the evening. For me this is a retinol (it can also be a glycolic acid) to support collagen, elasticity and texture. Secondly, you want to use an antioxidant in the morning after you cleanse and before your SPF - my go to is Vitamin C. It will neutralize oxidative stress that breaks down collagen and pigmentation. Layered strategically and if you skin tolerates it, you can also consider peptides, exosomes or other brightening agents.
The Essential Edit - tried and true favorites:
Sunscreen; The best one for you is the one you will actually use daily, as of late my go to is this one from EltaMD and then a layer of Tower 28 Sunny Days - or sometimes I’ll just mix them together.
Vitamin C; There are SO many choices, for me it’s about texture and what layers well. I have two strengths of Medik8, the C Tetra Luxe and the Super C and use them religiously.
Retinol; For me, I use prescription strength Tazorac 01% gel (it’s a bit more potent) nightly. There are many non-prescription strength options and a few to try include Medik8 Crystal Retinal (they have several strengths so you can start slow and progress) or the Retinol Renewal by Lalais. And when in doubt you can pick up Avene RetrinAL .01% in the drug store.
Recently I have added in the Allies of Skin Copper Peptide serum (using it at night - it does not mix well with Vitamin C) and I have been liking adding it to the mix. In any event, consistency is more powerful than any 10 step routine, so find the few that works hardest and your skin will thank you in the long run.